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Set in 600 acres of countryside just outside St Davids, Crug Glâs is a luxury country house and restaurant already well known for its commitment to local, seasonal produce. In the kitchen, Chef Sean Phillips is the man turning that produce into something special, and spending a full day there with him, cameras in hand, gave us a real appreciation for just how much thought, skill and quality goes into every single plate.
Over a dozen dishes came out of that kitchen during our visit, so rather than cram everything into one article, we're breaking the review into courses - starting, naturally, with the starters. Three dishes in, and it was already clear this was going to be a very special tasting - each plate elegant, simple and clean, with nothing on the plate that didn't need to be there.
There's no better way to open a menu than with crab this fresh. Chef Sean talked us through where the produce comes from as he worked, and with live lobsters just feet away, the message was clear: this is about as close to the source as seafood gets.
The dish layered white and brown crab meat beautifully - the delicate white meat first, with the brown worked through in soft, rich dots that added depth without ever overpowering the plate. Pickled lemon brought a clean, zesty lift, and a scattering of sea herbs tied the whole thing back to the coastline it came from. It felt less like a starter and more like a celebration of Pembrokeshire's coastal larder - simple, confident, and packed with flavour.
A classic done properly. The parfait itself was impossibly light - rich, silky ingredients handled with a subtlety that let the flavour speak without ever feeling heavy. Toasted almond added a welcome bit of texture against the smoothness, while the red onion chutney brought sweetness and acidity. The brioche, soft and pillowy, was the perfect vehicle for it all.
It's a dish that could easily tip into "too much" - parfait is rich by nature and we were very aware that we had so many dishes to come - but everything here was judged with real restraint. A comfort classic, elevated.
Perhaps the most unassuming dish on the table, and even more impressive for it. A handful of ingredients, executed with real precision, delivering far more flavour than the plate let on at first glance. A generous helping of truffle ran through the tart, complementing rather than dominating, and walnut added a gentle crunch against the creaminess of the filling.
Like the two dishes before it, what stood out most was how light it felt despite carrying big, rich flavours - a common thread running through this opening course.
Stay tuned — our fish and mains review from the same visit is coming soon.
Photographed by Darth Marty Media.
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